Could a single watch truly represent the pinnacle of horological achievement? Absolutely! The 2025 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), the most prestigious awards show in the watch industry, just concluded, and Breguet walked away with the coveted Aiguille d'Or for their Classique Souscription 2025. But the night was filled with other stunning victories too, and we're diving into all the winners from this celebration of watchmaking excellence.
The GPHG, held at the stunning Bâtiment des Forces Motrices in Geneva, is where the world's most talented watchmakers gather to celebrate the year's finest creations. It's a glamorous affair, filled with excitement and, let's be honest, a healthy dose of competition. And while Breguet's win for the Aiguille d'Or is the headline, the event shone a spotlight on a diverse range of exceptional timepieces.
Breguet's victory with the Classique Souscription 2025 is particularly significant, marking a high point in the brand's 250th-anniversary year. This prestigious award recognizes not only the beauty and craftsmanship of the watch but also the brand's dedication to preserving and advancing the art of watchmaking. CEO Gregory Kissling, in accepting the award, emphasized the blend of tradition and modernity that defines Breguet, a spirit that will continue to guide the brand forward.
Now, here's where it gets controversial... The GPHG isn't without its critics. Some argue that it's not a perfectly representative showcase of the entire industry. You'll notice some major players are conspicuously absent. There's no Patek Philippe or Rolex participating, and very few watches from the Swatch Group or most Richemont brands are featured. Is this due to disagreements with the judging process, strategic choices, or something else entirely? It's a question that sparks debate every year. But here's the important thing: the absence of these brands doesn't diminish the accomplishments of the nominees and winners who do participate. Their achievements are a testament to their dedication and skill in creating truly exceptional timepieces.
Before we jump into the rest of the victors, it's worth noting that the evening also served as a heartfelt farewell to Nick Foulkes, who concluded his five-year tenure as president of the GPHG jury. His leadership has been instrumental in shaping the awards into what they are today, and his passion for horology has inspired many.
Adding to the excitement, Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger, upon accepting the prize for 'Mechanical Exception,' gave a shout-out to none other than Meta CEO Mark Zuckerberg for his appreciation of mechanical watchmaking, even in this era of digital dominance. It's a reminder that the artistry and engineering of traditional timepieces continue to resonate, even with those at the forefront of technological innovation.
Alright, let's break down the winners in each category:
- Aiguille d'Or: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - As mentioned earlier, the top prize went to Breguet. This watch is a beautiful homage to the first souscription pocket watch created by the legendary Abraham-Louis Breguet. To delve deeper into the details of this remarkable timepiece, check out Rich Fordon's story: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-breguet-souscription-anniversary)
- Time Only: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold - This category celebrated simplicity and elegance. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold emerged victorious, showcasing the brand's ability to create a stunning time-only watch. Navas and Barbasini, representing Fabrique du Temps, acknowledged the challenge and significance of crafting such a pure expression of timekeeping. Read more about this elegant timepiece here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-daniel-roth-extra-plat-rose-gold)
- Men's: Urban Jürgensen UJ-2: Double Wheel Natural Escapement - In a crowded field of contenders, the Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 stood out for its technical innovation and classic design. Kari Voutilainen, the driving force behind the revived brand, aimed to create a timeless yet modern watch, and the UJ-2 certainly achieves that. Explore Mark's coverage of the brand's return here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-urban-jurgensen-returns-2025)
- Men's Complication: Bovet 1822 Récital 30 - Bovet's Récital 30 triumphed in the Men's Complication category with its innovative approach to world time. This watch doesn't rely on a static city ring; instead, it uses a system of rollers to accurately display local time anywhere in the world, even accounting for Daylight Saving Time. This is a level of precision that most traditional world-timers can't match!
- Ladies': Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal - This captivating watch, named after the sea urchin it resembles, won the Ladies' category. Malaika offers her insights on the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gerald-genta-gentissima-oursin-fire-opal). La Fabrique du Temps principals Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who both worked with Genta himself, accepted the prize.
- Ladies' Complication: Chopard Imperiale Four Seasons - Chopard took home the prize in the Ladies' Complication category with their Imperiale Four Seasons. This watch features a romantic complication that displays the progression of the seasons over the course of a year, connecting the watch's display directly to the natural calendar.
- Iconic: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar - The latest generation of Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar won in the 'Iconic' category. What makes this watch special is its new Calibre 7138, which allows all calendar functions to be adjusted via the crown. Discover more about the evolution of this movement in this story and video: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ben-clymer-john-mayer-ap-caliber-7138). As CEO Ilaria Resta put it, "It is simple, beautiful, but complicated."
- Tourbillon: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon - This category always showcases incredible feats of engineering, and the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a deserving winner. At just 1.85mm thick, this watch delivers a traditional flying tourbillon and a legible time display, a true marvel of miniaturization. Learn more here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-bulgari-octo-finnissimo-ultra-tourbillon)
- Chronograph: Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold - This monopusher chronograph impressed at Watches and Wonders and continued its momentum, securing a win for Angelus at the GPHG. CEO Pascal Béchu dedicated the watch to true enthusiasts and collectors.
- Sports: Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF - Chopard continued its strong showing with a win in the Sports category for the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF. This limited-edition watch features a lightweight ceramicised titanium build and a high-frequency 8 Hz automatic movement. Check out TanTan's story for more details: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopards-super-light-high-frequency-alpine-eagle-limited-edition-live-pics-and-pricing)
- Jewellery: Dior Montres La D de Dior Buisson Couture - Dior secured a victory in the Jewellery category with this intricately set timepiece, a tribute to the brand's French fashion heritage.
- Petite Aiguille: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.2 Green - Reserved for watches priced between CHF 3,000 and CHF 10,000, this prize went to Max Büsser and his MAD Editions M.A.D. 2 Green. This watch features a jumping-hour and trailing-minutes module. Explore our coverage of its release earlier this year: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/taking-the-mad2-for-a-spin). Büsser thanked long-time collaborator and designer Eric Giroud in his acceptance speech.
- Challenge: Dennison Natural Stone Tiger Eye in Gold - Dennison won the Challenge category, for watches priced at or under CHF 3,000, with a watch that has enjoyed sustained popularity. Get hands-on with the Dennison ALD Collection here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-dennison-ald-collection) and explore its evolution into a dual-time model here: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-dennison-dual-time-capsule-collection-ii-offers-a-more-modern-take-with-a-new-bark-mesh-metal-br).
- Mechanical Exception: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante - Greubel Forsey took home the Mechanical Exception prize with the Nano Foudroyante. This watch manages to pack several major complications into a surprisingly wearable size, including a monopusher chronograph, a flying tourbillon, and a foudroyante (or "lightning seconds") dial feature. Dive deeper into the Nano Foudroyante with Mark's Hands-On from last year: (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-nano-foudroyante-ewt)
The 2025 GPHG was a night to remember, celebrating the best and brightest in the watch industry. What are your thoughts on the winners? Do you agree with the choices? Are there any watches that you believe were overlooked? Let us know in the comments below!
